Trotting around the Countryside in Asturias

Friday, August 8, 2014

It was comfy and quiet last night – we slept with the windows open. Breakfast is included at our guest house and we meet downstairs at 9:00.
There is a fantastic spread laid out for us and then they even cook eggs to order.  We happily chow down.

Today’s travel will take us to Cudillero.  We plan on taking our time and visiting several places along the way.  Janel checks with the proprietor to find out some suggestions of what to see.

A short walk near the property is a great way to say goodbye to this area.




We take off and end up on some teeny backroads that will supposedly land us at Mirador Fitu – a beautiful After a bit of confusion and a couple of wrong turns, we find what we were looking for – Mirador Fitu.The views along the way were great, but the view at Miraodor Fitu is spectacular.








Lunch is the next thing on our minds (are you surprised?).  The car is pointed along the coast to a little village on the water.  We arrive in the beautiful town of Llastres and find a place to park way up on the hillside.  Iphones are consulted to find a great lunch spot (with a view, please) and we maneuver down hills and steps to reach our destination.


This place immediately reminds me of the hillside town of Praiano where the Short-Haired ladies traveled to last year.  The houses are up on the hillside and the businesses are at the bottom.  Walking down is the only way to go.

We pass an unusual structure among some of the houses:
It is a communal laundry!  Got to love it.



Finally, El Cafetin Restaurant looms large in front of us.
Wow.  The view is great – we snag a prime table on the shady terrace and sit back to enjoy another long lunch.


Clearly we must order fish.  Our server is super kind and helps us decide. A whole fish (Sarga – a sea bream), a bottle of white and a view like this – what could be better?


The Sarga is a mean looking little devil, but super tasty!
The Sarga is a mean looking little devil, but super tasty!

The fish is completely devoured.  Rich and Janel go after the “chef’s cut” which are the cheeks.  There is not a shred left anywhere.  When fish is this fresh it is a thing of beauty.  These people know how to eat.

Our server describes the desserts to us and a single one of lemon sorbet and cava is ordered.  It is light and refreshing.

We loved the pictures along the bottom of this truck.  Can you tell what they are?

What are the pictures all along the bottom?
What are the pictures all along the bottom?*


*fish eyes!

What comes down must go back up.  The trek back up the hill helps us to work off our lunch.  Before we leave Llastres we must drive up to the Mirador (vista) and see the village from up top.  It doesn’t disappoint.




There is one more stop that was suggested along our way – Cabo Peñas – a beautiful spot along the coast. Peñas cape is the northern most cpoint on the Iberian Peninsula.The destination is plugged into the iPhone GPS and we zoom off.  After a while we find ourselves more in the middle of nowhere than we should be. We can’t even see the ocean from here. The houses are few and far between and we are getting some weird stares from folks who live around these parts.  Hmmm… Wonder where we are.  The chosen destination is looked up again and our gps shows that we are RIGHT THERE.

Where are we?
Where are we?
THIS is Cabo Penas?  Great.
THIS is Cabo Peñas? Great.

Once we figure out that we have not quite entered in exactly where we wanted to be, the mistake is corrected and we head off in the correct (?) direction. Cabo Peñas was worth finding.



These photos are so fun that I kept snapping:






I know this is hard to tell, but Rich and Dario are waaay out there on this outcropping:
We have had a full day and are ready to land at our hotel/restaurant for the night in Cudillero.  Hotel Cabo Vidio is not too far away.  When we find it, Janel and Dario are a bit disappointed with its location.  It is a simple hotel with great reviews online (especially great reviews of the attached restaurant), but they thought it was right in town.  It is not. Oh – and the rooms are not air conditioned.  It is warmer here than up in the mountains and I am wondering if it will cool down this evening…

Dinner reservations are for 9:30 and we don’t even have to drive.  After a bit of relaxing and blogging, we simply walk downstairs. The restaurant here gets such rave reviews that we are very excited to see what is in store.  Our server is asked for recommendations and he convinces us to get both the grilled tuna belly (for 2) AND the lamb leg cooked 24 hours (for 2).  Oh – lets also start with sardines and tomatoes.

There are 4 spoons filled with anchovy butter (we are in anchovy/sardine territory) and a lovely basket of bread already on the table.  The anchovy butter is outrageously fantastic.  Who knew?

When the sardine salad arrives we are super excited.  These fish look so fresh and their are 4 kinds of tomatoes on the plate including confit.  Wow.


The grilled fish arrives and it is large enough for 4.  Did we really order another main course?


Yup, we did.  Our server presents the 24 hour leg of suckling lamb to an audible gasp from our table.

The lamb is absolutely amazing and is served with a little bowl of au jus – dubbed “bowl of sin” by Dario.  The lamb is super juicy, surprisingly mild, with beautiful crispy skin. We pick and pick on both the lamb and the fish until there is nothing left.

The postre selections leave us in a pickle.  Among the choices are tarta de queso (cheesecake, but better) and arroz con leche.  We are torn.  Since we had arroz yesterday we choose the tarta. Our server leaves and comes back to inform us they are out of the tarta.  Easy – bring us the arroz con leche.  This one was carmelized on top and was unbelievable.  How can rice/milk be so great?

Yep.  The reviews are correct.  The restaurant at Cabo Vidio is a true gem.  They certainly care about the food and use the best ingredients.  We are so happy that Janel and Dario found this place.

It is after midnight when we close up the joint to go to bed. Our room is hot so I open the windows to let in some breeze.  Soon, Rich tells me that we need to shut them so that mosquitoes don’t come in. Reluctantly I do so and we turn out the lights. It is really warm in the room.  And humid. Just when I think I can’t take it I hear the distinctive hum of a mosquito in my ear.  Oh no.

We try hiding under the sheet, but it is stifling.  We toss and turn and finally decide to turn on the lights to try and kill IT.  We wait.  The little bugger lights on the bed and is taken care of.  Lights off.  Goodnight.  Then I start getting bit and hear the hum again.  Lights on.  We wait.  One of us uses ourself as “bait” while the other one watches and waits for the kill.

This scene replays itself all night long.  Rich finally dives under the covers completely and manages to get some zzz’s. I try, but I can’t take it underneath.  I sit up pretty much all night with the lights on being the “guard and protector.”  Oh man. This is the only place that we have planned on staying two nights…


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