Hard Core

Sunday, May 20, 2018

It is super quiet at Jac’s B&B and we sleep like logs.  Last night I convinced Jac that we wanted breakfast at 9:00 instead of 8:30.  Yesssss!  ?

A quick glance out the window shows us all we need to know.  It is raining, foggy and cold – great day for our golf round on South Uist.  I remember I said “never again” about golfing in the wind and rain.  Can I suck it up?

We make our way downstairs where Jac has set a lovely table for us and his two British guests for breakfast.  It is simple and delicious with yogurt, breads, cheeses, meats, coffee, toast with plenty of butter and the most beautiful tomatoes we have seen in a long time.


The Brit couple are engaging and we enjoy sitting around the table for an hour or so.  Nobody really wants to get out in this weather.  But – this is our only chance to golf the course I have read about – Askernish. We bundle up and motor south.

Bagh Aliun B&B
Gonna be an all-day rain

It takes about an hour to reach the course.  There is a little cafe onsite and the lady inside thinks we are nuts.  We are.  As we prepare ourselves there are two “drowned rats” coming off the course.  They tell us it will be worth it…


The first six holes are ok – the wind is with us.  Then the most scenic holes along the coast have the wind whipping against us. This is Hard Core.

Do I get relief from this humongous cow patty?

The terrain is rough and very hilly.  It is a chore to slog my trolley up and down the wet hills.  I whine.  Even for a golf addict like me, this is just too much.


We do manage to get one pretty cool photo out of all of this:


Eighteen holes can’t go by quick enough for me.  I am whipped – both literally and figuratively.  Due to the horrific conditions we did not even add up the match scores. The card was soaked after 10 holes anyway. 1/2 point each for today. Match count: Rich 5.75/Linda 4.5.

It is already approaching dinner time so we decide to go straight to the Westford Inn and our 7:30 reservation.  We both look quite wrung out, but this is just a pub so we figured we were ok.

There is a nice fireplace inside to help warm us up.  Unfortunately our table is not in the fireplace room.  Oh well, we will order hot soup.


The soup is delicious, and the bread is amazing!


I order the “small” Crofter’s Platter” of meats and cheeses while Rich opts for the Sunday Roast and Yorkshire Pudding.



My platter is great, but a Rich’s discovery of a new favorite (Yorkshire pudding) was a huge hit.  Neither of us has ever tried it.  Have you?  They are sort of hollow rolls (like a cream puff, but not sweet) that are richly browned on top and are delicious when dippen in gravy.  Rich absolutely loved it and is now determined to start making it at home. I am certain we will find a recipe.

When we return to our B&B Jac is just coming up the driveway on his bicycle.  He invites us into the living room for a wee dram of whisky (in Scotland it is whisky, not whiskey).  We sit and gab – he is a very interesting character.  When the conversation turns to art and his paintings, Rich asks him about the “cat” he sees in Jac’s painting in our room.  Jac claims there is no cat so Rich goes up and snaps a photo of said feline.

See a cat here?

We are soon joined by the other two guests and more whisky is poured.  This is a great end to our short journey in the Outer Hebrides!


8 thoughts on “Hard Core

  1. I’ve made Yorkshire pudding for years. When Rich finds out how easy it is he will be amazed. There is a secret to it and I’ll shsre when I see you. Hope you are able to dry out your rainwear. T

    1. Should have known – especially knowing how much Tom enjoyes “British” things. You must tell Rich your secret!

    1. Great! We will look it up when we get home. However, I told Rich that I think it is a winter dish and he may have to wait.

  2. I am reading your last post of 5/20 on 5/26 and hopefully you are on your toward Spain soon. I admire your adventurous spirit to explore remote and less travelled lands, especially islands but this place must get tedious even short term. Imagine poor Jac in his own long term exile trying to improve his art. At least you’ve had the chance to go there, satisfy your curiosity and move on to your next adventure. But where did he get those tomatoes?

    1. It didn’t get tedious to us, but I can’t imagine living in Baleshare North Uist like Jac. He seems perfectly happy. Wintertime must get lonely with no tourists, but that is when he paints. I don’t know where he got those tomatoes – they were amazing! We ate them ALL. Maybe Eric Seiler shipped some specially to him? ps – you would love most of the places we have visited…

  3. I have loved all the places. That’s why in comparison it seemed like you went one ferry too far. Maybe the weather tedied me.

  4. I may have to re-title this day’s post: “A Ferry Too Far.” In fact, I will. Keep reading – the weather only gets better and better! We are still in Scotland. Leaving for Barcelona tomorrow.

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