You Have to Leave so You Can Come Back

3 04 2013

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

All good things must end.  Today is my last day in Madrid and my last day with Janel until who knows when.  It is always a difficult scenario, but we usually make the most of it and enjoy every minute together.

The Korean place that was closed yesterday is going to be given another chance.  Janel says she has never ventured in because you can’t see in through the windows.  Fair enough.  It would be very awkward to go in and take a look only to decide that you do NOT want to stay and eat there.  We decide we can handle it.  Han Gang Restaurante Coreano is about a 5 minute walk from my apartment. Turned out to be a great choice.

The entire menu looked great.  We ended up ordering dumplings (fantastic!), kimchee (Jane’ls favorite), spinach and some kind of thinly sliced steak. We were also served two different kind of sprouts that were incredible.  Seriously.  I have never been excited about bean sprouts, but these were different.  They had a great crisp texture and a nutty flavor.  We loved them.

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There is a “grill” in the middle of every table and we purposely ordered the Bulkogi (Korean BBQ) so that we could use ours.  Our server fired it up and when it was ready he brought out a plate of meat with some raw mushroom and zucchini.  We enjoyed grilling our own and dipping into the sauce.  We think the other diners (who ordered menu del dia) were envious.

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steak cooking on our grill

I am sure Janel will be returning to Han Gang.

After lunch we were going to find a place for coffee, but Janel suggested an English tea spot that she had gone to previously.  Sounded perfect for another drizzly day in Madrid. We decided to make the rather long walk to let our lunch settle. Walking around in Madrid is a treat – some of the buildings are simply gorgeous. I love it.

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Living in London is a very British, very cute tea shop.  Nice and cozy. We both ordered different teas and shared a huge chocolate torte.  The teas are served in individual pots – we like that.

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The chocolate cake was HUGE.  Just to make it “better” they give you a little pitcher of cream to drizzle on it.  Did we need that? No.  Did we try that? Yes.  Did we love that. YES!

By the time we were ready to leave, it was raining again. Really raining.  The metro looked like the sane choice.  Janel went to her private lesson and I went back home.  We will meet up again for dinner.

Tonight we are going to a typical Spanish place for dinner/tapas. You would never find Casa de Granada if you didn’t know it existed.  There is absolutely no sign out front.  You enter into a typical apartment style building and go up the (unmarked) elevator to the top and there you are.  The restaurant/bar is very typical of the style you see in Granada and also serves as a meeting place for people from Granada.  They have a really nice outdoor terrace overlooking the city.  We choose to sit there even though it is a bit chilly and the view is obstructed from the plastic they have draped to keep out the rain.  Oh well – we still like it.

We order the boquerones (fried whole anchovies) and a revuelto (eggs) with mushrooms and shrimp. The boquerones are great and remind me of our time in Granada several years ago when I had them for the first time.  The revuelto is smooth and comforting.  We sit and chat at our perch overlooking the city for a long time.

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little salty fried fishes!

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It was early by Spain standards (10:00) and we really didn’t want to leave each other.  Janel knew of just the place we could go and have a glass of wine.  Bar Dos Gardenias in Huertas is almost a perfect little bar. It is a  dark, tiny, cozy, friendly spot with worn out and mismatched sofas, chairs and bar stools.  Perfect spot for chillin’.  Oh – and it was empty.

love the colors!

love the colors!

The bartender is spinning VINYL (yes, really) and is friendly and quiet.  The entire time we were there only one other party of 3 came and went.  We loved it.

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Finally, we had to go home.  We went to my apartment and since we still didn’t want to say goodbye we shared a cup of tea.  Then we really had to say goodbye.  I will spare you the sad details.  As a wise woman (Alice) has been known to say “You have to leave so that you can come back.”

Love you, Nellie.  Bye.





From Galicia to South America in a Day

2 04 2013

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Back to work for Janel today.  I know she is dreading it.  She is burning the candle at both ends while I am here.  I know she will be somewhat happy to return to her regular routine.

When we meet for lunch today Janel is set on trying a Korean place that is close to her home.  She has never tried it, but after going to the gym today she is craving “grilled meat and veggies.”  We walk there in several minutes only to find that it is CLOSED on Tuesdays!  We aren’t having such great luck with restaurant hours. A change of plans is made and we make our way to Taberna Maceiras, a place that we both have been to before and really enjoyed. The restaurant specializes in Galician food – focusing on seafood.  Ok – we could do with some more of that.

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We peruse the menu and choose the berberechos (“cockles” in English, but berberechos sound so much better), pimientos de padron and the seafood rice speciality.  Two “bowls” of white wine complete the meal. The berberechos are amazing.  I have only had them once before (at Juana la Loca) and they were pureed with cream cheese.  These ones are in the shell served with a tomato-y broth.  Yummy.

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Berberechos! Notice the bowl of white wine.

The "boneyard"

The “boneyard”

Pimientos de Padron are small green peppers that are sauteed in olive oil until a bit charred and then sprinkled with sea salt.  Part of the fun of eating them is that occasionally you come across a hot one.  Janel and I ate them at Melo’s Bar last time I was here and I loved them. These particular ones are tasty, but we are disappointed that there are no hot ones.

No hot ones here

No hot ones here

Then the seafood rice arrives.  Wow.  It is served in it’s own little pot and is brimmimg with crab, mussels and shrimp.  We love it.

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We decide that this broth was absolutely made for “rooming” and make full use of the thick pieces of Galician bread.

"This dish was made for roomin'"

“This dish was made for roomin’”

When we are finished, the server asks us if we would like a special chupito.  We both are completely full and decline, but we get to watch the spectacle of the digestif being prepared.  The server appears with a very large ceramic bowl of liquid (basically pure alcohol) with some flavorings added.  The queimada is then set on fire!

IMG_7794All at once the lights are dimmed, music is turned on loud (there is supposed to be a chant over the drink) and the server proceeds to stir and stream the burning liquid – quite the show. (Janel says it looks a whole lot better than it tastes!)

Pretty cool

Pretty cool

Lunch and a show.  Not bad for a Tuesday afternoon. We leave Taberna Maceiras and attempt to walk off some of our lunch while searching for a place to have coffee.  Oh, and chocolate.  We both know where to go.

IMG_7806Cacao Sampaka is a chocolateria/cafe that we have visited last time I was in Madrid.  The chocolate is first rate and you can select from a list of about 30 different flavors of bonbons to go with your cappuccino. Yes please.

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We chose a selection of 4: cardamom, lemon/ginger, cassis, and a grand marnier truffle.  They were exactly what was called for.

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What shall we do now?  I know – let’s get manicures!  I told Janel that I wanted to go to a cheap, Asian manicure place and she thinks she remembers seeing one in her area.  Yes.  We find it – peek in the window and see that a manicure is 6 euros! That makes us a bit unsure, but we figure what have we got to lose? We go in.

Hard to read the sign - "Hello Unas"

Hard to read the sign – “Hello Unas”

There are 3 persons working on nails in this itty bitty shop.  Yes, they have time/space for 2 manicures.  We choose our colors and settle in.

Janel chooses her color

Janel chooses her color

Janel chooses a deep red and I go for a more tame pale pink.  The nail techs chatter on with each other in Vietnamese (?) while they shape and polish.

IMG_781012 euros later and we have newly polished and trimmed nails.  That makes us very happy.  Janel will probably visit here in the future.

For dinner tonight we have chosen la Panamerica – a “cevicheria” with flavors from South America with an Asian twist (it works). We have reservations for 9pm and arrive right on time.  Janel and I order a couple of Pisco Sours (my first – they are great!) and wait for Dario to meet us.

My first Pisco Sour

My first Pisco Sour

Soon enough Dario shows up and says he has had a stressful day.  A Pisco Sour is quickly ordered for him and he begins to relax.

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Bloody Mary ceviche (Dario looks relaxed…)

The menu looks very interesting and I let Janel and Dario order for the table.  We try the Bloody Mary Acapulqueno, Tiradito de Oil Fish, something I don’t remember the name of in a lettuce wrap and Conchinita Pibil. All are served in a very playful manner and are fun and delicious.

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Lighly battered fried fish with mint (yum) and cilantro (yum, yum)

Butterfish (oil fish) with palomitas (popcorn) for dipping and rooming

Butterfish (oil fish) with palomitas (popcorn) for dipping and rooming

Another great meal shared with fantastic company.  Tomorrow is my final evening in Madrid.  I wonder what we will do?





Argentine Pizza? In Madrid? YES!

1 04 2013

Monday, April 1, 2013

Woke up early this morning to watch Johnny’s Kickstarter Livecast.  It was a HUGE success and you can watch the entire thing (3 hours!) HERE.

Since I had breakfast at “home” this morning, Janel and I were pretty lazy and didn’t even leave the house until lunchtime.  She had a day off today and needed to sleep in as well.

Janel had previously mentioned an Argentinian pizza place and I had a hankering.  We walked for quite a while because the weather wasn’t completely nasty and finally found the place.  It was closed.:( The sign indicated that they would be open for dinner so we changed our plans.  We tried a couple of other places only to find they were also closed.  On Monday.  By this time we were famished and popped into a pizza place that looked promising.  It wasn’t.

We both ordered the Menu del Dia – Janel with some sort of Turkey “thing” and me the lasagna del dia.  Our salads were pretty ok.  Then they sat down my lasagna.  It looked good.  However, the server immediately returned, mumbling something about the meat lasagne not being “good” today.  He whisked it away and inquired whether I would prefer the eggplant.  What???  Made us both very suspicious.

The eggplant lasagne was ok as was Janel’s turkey. We were both kind of bummed that we basically wasted a lunch on this place.  Fortunately (or unfortunately) I don’t even remember the name. The best part of lunch was when it started hailing like crazy outside! The weather in Madrid this March/April has been crazy.  I have never seen it like this.

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Should we try and shop again?  With some trepidation, we both agree that we will give it another go.  The hail/rain has stopped and the sun is trying to shine.

The Madrid H&M store has usually been a positive shopping experience for Janel so that is where we decide to start.  Good choice. We immediately start finding things and very soon our arms are loaded down with goodies to try.  Success!  Quite a few of the items we chose are clear winners on Janel (of course, I think she could wear a burlap bag and look fantastic…). We are proud of our purchases.

I expressed a desire to bring home a great bottle of Cava and Dario had suggested a certain label to me last evening.  We set out to Corte Ingles to find it.  Score!  The packaging is indeed gorgeous and hopefully the cava inside will live up to the packaging.

III Lustros

III Lustros

Janel sports one of her new outfits as we get ready to go out for dinner.  She looks fabulous!

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Tonight we will get our pizza.  Finally.  Janel has only gone to this place once and says it is a very “sweet” place.  She is right.  I adore it immediately.

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Mastropiero is a tiny, tiny place with about 6 high-top tables and one very nice woman working behind the counter.  Every pizza on their menu looks fantastic.  We choose 1/2 pulpo (octopus) and 1/2 mushroom.

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A bottle of house wine with two little shot glasses completes our dinner.  When the pizza arrives I know we have chosen correctly.  It is fabulous and we devour it!

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When we are finished, the woman asks us if we would like postre (dessert).  Before we can even answer, she hands us a plate with 3 desserts on it – cheesecake, chocolate torta and a huge spoonful of the darkest, smoothest dulce de leche I have ever seen.

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Do we like it?  What do you think? This entire meal has set us back 17 euros.

I must go home so I can stop eating (and go back to the gym…).





Happy Easter!

31 03 2013

Sunday, March 31, 2013

This post will be completed shortly.  It will detail our outstanding Easter Lunch at Lieu!  (see last Easter Sunday at Lieu HERE). Meanwhile – we have added posts for Monday and Tuesday.





In Lieu of Gifts, Please Send Wine

31 03 2013

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We fist visited Lieu precisely one year ago. Easter Sunday feels just right for a proper degust, and there’s nowhere we like to do it more than at Daniele Scelza’s place in Madrid de los Austrias.

This time we succeed in bringing along a guest, and yet fail to remember a proper camera. It’s a blow – the lunch is certain to be a visual treat – but we’re running slightly tight on time, and the iPhone will have to suffice.

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We’re startled to note that we’re the only ones here. Lieu’s certainly not a place for rowdy lunchtime cañas, but the absolute stillness is stark. Of course, it’s an honor to be the center of attention – like last time, we’ve specifically requested the barside chef’s table in order to maximize connection with the kitchen. However, we badly want to see this place make it big, to not only weather the crisis but to sail through in high style.

Darío and I trawl through the excellent wine list, noting many current favorites. Juan Gil makes an appearance, so we inquire as to what else among the offerings might be in the same vein. Daniele recommends a 2010 Clio, and, my god, yes. Like its murciano brethren, it seems to expand in all directions at once, licorice and smokiness, overripe red fruits and dusky vanilla. The fledgling oeonologist within is positively giddy.

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An amuse of breaded morcilla dotted with apricot, followed by suckling pig canelone with crumbled pork cracklings and red pepper air. Weight mediated with lightness.

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Every single spring, I’m smacked across the face with a mad craving for asparagus. This visually stunning arrangement celebrates the stalk in both white and green incarnations, the fresh grassiness counterweighted by panna cotta and dots of creamy yolk. Spring’s stirrings, plated.

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Sheets of potato and bacon draped in velvety beef sauce. Oh, and a pair of juicy escargot. Yes. I love snails this way; their earthy umami is most successfully underlined for me by other robust flavor combinations. It calls for a second bottle of Clio, which keeps displaying different facets depending on its accompaniment. For sheer versatility, I think I even prefer it to my beloved Bierzos.

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The fish course is hake with herbs de provençe, resting on a bed of stoplight red tomato compote and topped by green quinoa. I ask where one acquires this variety of quinoa – because, wow! – which makes Daniele grin, and he reveals they make it in the kitchen by blending up herbs (duh).

The pork shank’s thickened juices form a yin-yang with the creamy yellow polenta, lifted with greens and a scattering of rogue raisins.

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Daniele and the newest member of his team come out for chat re: wine, business in Madrid, the jazz classics playing in the background. He’s a consummate host and, quite frankly, my favorite professional chef in the city. Note that each and every dish on the tasting menu is completely different from those a year prior. Daniele seems to take this as a matter of course – seasons change, and so should menus. Plus, why get into the restaurant biz at all if not for the opportunity to surprise your public with something new?

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The first dessert course is exactly this – something new, a kir royale like we’ve never considered it before. Icy berries huddle in the bottom of a glass layered with cassis sorbet just this side of sour. Champagne foam floats ethereal. It’s the hidden ginger chips that shock you, though, a sudden crunch of obstreperous spice that runs parallel to the otherwise angelic concoction. We goggle.

Our final sweet is Lieu’s cold and creamy rendition of arroz con leche, complete with puffed rice grains and slices of kumquat.

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We’ve picked Daniele’s brain regarding the world of professional oenology – I’m thinking it might make a very nice Next Step – and he emerges with a bottle of Rioja, and presents it to me. Wha! We spoke about Rioja Crianzas normally being much too woody to suit our taste, and he tells me this Viña Eizaga is anything but, and that I should give it a go.

I reel at the kindness. Can’t wait to pop the cork.

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The rain that’s been so unrelenting all of Semana Santa refuses to abate, and we figure we’ll wait it out in nearby Café de Oriente. Espresso and a corner table and belly laughs round out the afternoon: wholly idyllic.





Goodbye, Janet

30 03 2013

Saturday, March 30, 2013

Janet’s departure day :(

It has been another awesome Short-Haired Ladies trip, but the time has come for Janet to leave us.  For someone who said they didn’t think they would like Portugal, she certainly appeared to have a great time!  We will never let her live down her preconceived and misconstrued notions of Portugal.  Ready to go back, Janet?

It was an early morning for the two of us.  We drug her huge bag down the stairs (I am going to have to drag mine alone…) and out into the streets to try and catch a cab for Atocha Renfe and the airport express bus.  We decided not to try the metro because there are no elevators.  After only a couple minutes walk (uphill, of course) a taxi pulls over for us and I manage to direct him to the train/bus station.

Waiting for the bus at Atocha Renfe

Waiting for the bus at Atocha Renfe

The Airport Express bus is a beautiful thing.  It takes exactly the same amount of time as a taxi, is comfortable, has wi-fi (!) and is about 20-25euro cheaper than a cab.  Check it out if you are visiting Madrid.

The bus arrives and we have to say “goodbye.”  Janet is not altogether too unhappy – she has succumbed to my way of thinking and is flying First Class to Atlanta.  She is already anticipating her pre and post nap on the plane (after lunch of course).

Buen Viaje, Janet!

Buen Viaje, Janet!

I metro it home and hit the bed for a few more precious hours.  When Janel rings me, I am refreshed and ready to begin again. We head out for brunch in the city.  Le Pain Quotidien is our spot for this morning. We have both been there before and like it a lot. We are directed to a seat at the long communal table and happily sip our BOWLS of coffee.

IMG_7737We order one eggs benedict with salmon and one yogurt parfait.  They are both delicious.  The parfait has Chia seeds – something Janel has heard of, but are really new to us. Evidently they are the latest and greatest “health food.”  We look them up online and are pleased that we are eating something that is supposedly really good for us!

Today looks like a great day for Janel’s promised “shopping spree” (from Christmas).  We venture out with high hopes, but are soon deflated when most if not all of the clothes in the stores look just plain ugly.  The colors are peach and green and are hideously baggy and awful. (for example)  Janel bravely tries on a few “bags” and we give up in disgust. We decide to concentrate on shoes and go to the Camper store where she finds some killer black sandals that are way cute and super comfy.  Score! (they are also guaranteed for 2 years!)

Shopping makes us hungry (again).  It is finally sort of sunny out and we want to eat lunch outside.  Janel remembers the quaint Plaza Olivide where there are several restaurants that specialize in Tortilla (Spanish tortilla is an omelet with potatoes and eggs) and Ensalada.  Yes.

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Janel orders a Tinto de Verrano to celebrate (or really to urge on) Spring and I have a cana. Our salad and tortilla are just what we wanted and we sit and munch while people/dog watching.

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The tortilla has two huge peppers on top.

After lunch we wander around a bit enjoying the first sunshine we have seen in several days.  Lots of people are out and about with the same idea.Our wandering eventually leads us to my home for a bit of a read and a bit of a siesta.

Tonight we have been invited to Darío’s house for dinner.  I have heard to much about his cooking and am very excited to taste his creations firsthand.  I feel very honored to be invited to his home.  Darío lives a bit out of the center so we metro it to the end of one of the lines to get to his place. He has a beautiful apartment with just the perfect kitchen and every cooking gadget imaginable.

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Janel and I perch at the bar looking into the kitchen and watch Darío in action.  He has told us he is just going to prepare a “snack” but I think he lied…

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Finishing touches on toast with quail egg and anchovy along with seared foie and quail breast (the usual items I have in my pantry…)

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Shrimp skewers wrapped in noodles and seared – with mango puree

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Wine is poured, dinner is served and we sit down to a lovely table of treats including a variety of cheeses, cecima (I may like it almost as much as Jamon), foie, quail breast with apple compote, toast with quail egg and anchovy and tuna tataki with avocado. Everything is beautifully presented and delicious.

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The food, the wine, the company – does it get any better?  Well… maybe only when dessert is served.  Darío makes a very traditional Spanish dessert that is served mainly at Easter – Torrija.  It is kind of like a French toast or Pan Perdu.  He has made it with lovely thick slices of bread and a rich egg/milk soaking, then sauteed it in butter and finished it with a drop of maple syrup and chocolate glaze.  Amazing.

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Dinner was awesome and I feel very honored to have been a part of such a lovely evening. When we finally get up from the table it is almost 1am! Thank you, Darío.





A Cheesy Ending to the Short Haired Ladies Trip

29 03 2013

Friday, March 29, 2013

Since we slept with our windows open last night we awoke this morning to the sound of rain (again!). We have been dodging the rain this entire week and today it looks like the rain will finally win – it is downpouring. For the most part, the weather has not hindered us from anything we have wanted to do.  We are especially grateful that yesterday was clear for our beautiful drive through Northern Portugal.  The drive from Amarante to Porto (airport) will not be so nice.

Breakfast awaits us in the Largo do Paco dining room.  We really aren’t hungry after last night’s feast, but wander down to check it out anyway.  The room is just as beautiful in the daytime and the breakfast spread is lavish.  We partake of bits and pieces.

We love the red dishes and the yellow walls

We love the red dishes and the yellow walls

This next picture is so that you can get a good look at the “chair hoods” that we had so much fun with last night:

Notice the chair hoods in the background

Notice the chair hoods in the background

There is plenty of time for us to get to the airport and since we can’t mess around in town (since it is POURING RAIN) we hang out in our room.  We email, nap, blog, etc. Much of our time is spent fretting about the pawltry checked baggage allowance on Ryainair (our flight carrier back to Madrid).  When we flew to Lisbon we were on EasyJet (another European low-cost carrier).  Janet and I both checked a bag and they each weighed in just under Easy Jet’s 23kg allowance.  We have since discovered that RyanAir’s allowance is only 20kg.  Since we have made a few purchases along the way, including 3 heavy bottles of precious olive oil, we are in a tailspin.

Janel and I have both flown RyanAir previously.  (see this blogpost on “WhyanAir”) we know to set our expectations very, very low.  You MUST check in online and print your boarding pass.  If you don’t they will charge you an exorbitant fee to print your pass.  You MUST add and pay for checked baggage at least 4 hours prior to check in.  If you don’t – exorbitant fee.  You MUST only have ONE carryon.  Purse, camera bag, tiny lunch bag – doesn’t matter.  You can only have ONE.  (It must weigh less than 10kg and they will make sure it fits into their carryon “fitter” before boarding).  IF your checked bag is overweight… yep – EXORBITANT fee of 20euro per kg overweight.  All of this is stressing us out.

Janet and I systematically start plowing through our luggage to see what we can ditch.  I manage to toss some toiletry items and also lose the nice bottle of cherry liqueur that we purchased in Lisbon. We are stuffing everything possible into our carryons.  I even pop a pair of shoes into my coat.  We all plan to wear as many clothes/jackets as possible in order to keep our bag weight down.  We know we each must get rid of at least 3 kg and also try to add the 3 bottles of olive oil (which we are NOT going to ditch).

When our bags are finally ready we check out of Casa da Calcada. We wish we could have spent more time here and explored the town of Amarante.

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I have one added stress – I realize I must maneuver our car back down the narrow cobblestones and through that tiny, tiny opening into the blind street.  Oh yeah, and in the rain.

Look at the tiny opening lower right

Look at the tiny opening lower right

Janel offers to get out in the rain and direct me.

Here I come

Here I come

Made it!

Made it!

The drive to the airport was kind of hairy in the rain, but with Janel’s navigational skills we made it with no problem.  Car return was easily spotted and we arrived at the RyanAir check-in with lots of time to spare.  Since we were early, check-in was not open yet which actually was good for us.  We have time to throw our bags on their scales and to re-organize if necessary.  Turns out we wasted the fretting.  Janet’s bag was 19.8kg and mine weighed in at a cool 19.9kg (even with the 3 bottles of olive oil). Whew!

Janet is thrilled with waiting in line at RyanAir

Janet is thrilled with waiting in line at RyanAir

After check-in we flew through security and settled in some comfy chairs to have a coffee and a small snack.

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Janel finally managed to order coffee the way she wanted in Portugal.  She has tried every time to order the Spanish equivalent  of a Cortado which is an espresso with just a splash of milk.  She has always ended up with a drop of espresso and a large amount of milk (the way I like it – cafe con leche).  Here she orders a “pingo” and it is just right.  Well done.

Pingo on left, meia de leite (cafe con leche) on right

Pingo on left, meia de leite (cafe con leche) on right

We relax before being herded onto the RyanAir flight.  Janet gets the full experience of having to fight for seating and then trying to nap during the constant announcements of things to purchase (including scratch tickets!).  Thank heaven the flight is only an hour.  We arrive back in Madrid and back to our first apartment near Janel’s place.  It is good to be “home.”

Home

Home

Since it is not raining in Madrid and we have a couple of hours of daylight left, we shun the much needed siesta and opt for a slight walk around.  We end up at a neighborhood cafe – El Gato Verde.  It is a very chill place and we go upstairs with our canas (small beers) and perch in front of the window to people watch and draw up our “Best Of” list for Portugal.

Our perch at El Gato Verde

Our perch at El Gato Verde

Tonight is Janet’s final evening in Spain and we have chosen to dine at Poncelet.  Janel and I discovered Poncelet Cheese Bar on my previous visit to Madrid (read about our Poncelet experience HERE) and she has been back several times since them.  Rich and Janel went there in August when he visited.  It is a unique concept (a Cheese restaurant?) and now they recognize Janel when she visits.  We are excited to share a cheese tasting experience with Janet.

When we arrive for our 9:00 reservation Janel is greeted warmly by the host and as we make our way through the restaurant most of the waiters acknowledge her. (We decided Poncelet wins the award for “cutest waiters”) We are shown to one of the “good” tables in the middle of the room where we can watch all the action.  There are only a few patrons here now, but it is “early” for Spain.  We notice that every single table has a “reservado” sign on it.

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Glasses of cava are poured and the Selection of Cheese of the Day are ordered along with a lovely platter of Jamon Iberico.  We enjoy watching all the cheese action as the “head monger” goes in and out of the cheese cave that is directly behind us.  Different knives and contraptions are used to slice the various cheeses.  The action starts to get fast and furious as the dining room fills up.

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Watching the action

Watching the action – notice the cheese “cave” in back of the server

We have placed our order for the selection of the day just as in previous visits.  This is a selection of the cheeses that they say are at their best on this day.  You can hardly go wrong.  We order it as a tabla for one person since we already know it will be plenty.  After our cheese arrives we ask for a suggestion of a bottle of red wine to go with it.  I have requested a Bierzo.  I am very pleased when the exact same wine I loved last time shows up on our table!

Wish we could get this in the US

Wish we could get this in the US

Our selections

Our selections

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Yes, Rich – that is the Stilton in the foreground!

The selection of cheeses is explained to us by one of the mongers. They are presented from mildest to strongest and we begin the tasting.

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At some point during our experience I spy a beautiful block of Pouligny St Pierre.  Pouligny is a cheese that is shaped like a small Eiffel Tower.  Rich and Janel had it last time they were at Poncelet and Rich has been raving about it ever since.  I actually ordered him some from Frommage.com, but he said it just wasn’t as good as the one at Poncelet.  We must try it.

The Pouligny St Pierre

The Pouligny St Pierre

Now I see what the fuss was all about.  It is indeed much better than what we received from the online source.  I think it has to do with the level of maturity.  The Pouligny is declared a success.

The wine is also a success

The wine is also a success

I wish I could remember what Janel was tasting here!

I wish I could remember what Janel was tasting here!

The Stilton is left for the end.  It is a very strong, blue cheese that will pair beautifully with Port or other sweet dessert wine.  Janet and I decline, but Janel dives in and asks for a recommendation from the cutie waiterIMG_7725

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We are completely “cheesed out” but the night is young (11:30).  It is decided that we should stop by our favorite little hang-out bar in La Latina – El Siete de la Cava.  (Look HERE and HERE fora couple of our experiences at El Siete). We always go there at least once and this is Janet’s final opportunity.  One short Metro ride away and we come upon a bustling Cava Baja area.  We brush through all the people of the street and go directly to our beloved El Siete.

Our friend, Jesus, recognizes Janel and his face lights up.  Then he recognizes me and he again lights up.  He greets us like old friends.  We introduce him to Janet (he was not there on her previous visit) and order three glasses of wine.  It is a great, relaxing way to end our evening and to end the SHL portion of this trip.

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Our friend, Jesus behind the bar

Our friend, Jesus behind the bar

Lasting memories

Lasting memories








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